This Now Ends our Regular Broadcast Day

A burrito and a beer alongside the River Spree. Hell of a way to start a spin through Berlin.

Im posting tonight to tell you all I won’t be posting tonight. Not much of one, anyway. Today we took an excellent private tour with David (the weather held for us, thankfully) that is definitely a highlight of this trip. Problem is, afterward he joined us at the Augustiner for Schnitzel as big as my head and a few Bavarian pretzels and after that Jim and I walked up to the Brandenberg Gate again to see it at night and it’s now 11pm and we are just getting in.

On top of that, today is a difficult thing to quantify or put into words. The history of Berlin is so vast and so complex (even just the last 70 years of it) and in so many ways incredibly heart wrenching that I’m not sure how to express all that we saw without putting you through the same whipsaw emotional ride we took. (Also, late and beer.) So instead I’m going to give you some Europe is Weird, German Edition and try to take new stock tomorrow when we will be visiting the German History Museum and, likely either the Topography of Terror or the East Side Gallery.

So, on with the fun:

This thing seemed to follow us all over the place but this is the best shot I got of it. It is a bar, complete with taps that you sit at and pedal (every stool has a set of pedals) your way around the sights. So you drink your beer (no open container law here) and pedal to power it and the operator steers it from the back and (ostensibly) sober.

This guy tried to charge me €1.50 for a photo, so Jim took a picture from down the block with the digital zoom. He is cooking sausages on a grill he is wearing strapped over his shoulders. It’s a neat little concept called grill runner and if he wasn’t such a jerk about the picture we might have tried one. Behind him in the former East German uniform is a guy who for about €5 would put a fake East German visa stamp in your passport. Which doesn’t seem like such a good idea to me, but I’m not behaving like a crazy tourist. (We actually saw someone taking a picture while giving a ‘heil Hitler’ salute at the Brandenberg Gate this afternoon. I’m going to assume that she had no idea what this meant because I’m not sure I want to live in the same world as someone who did know and took that picture anyway – there is a reason why that gesture is illegal in Germany and if she were a citizen the Polizei who were on site in front of the American Embassy would have arrested her. They take that stuff seriously among their populace.)

 

So I promise a return to regular programming tomorrow. Until then, gute nacht everyone.

 

PS Secret Message for Marni (yes again. She is my sister, stop groaning)

 

Look what passes for street food in Berlin!

 

 

Hamburg: All Things Great and Small (Really, Really, Small)

 
 
A programming note before we start. Older posts can now be found by clicking the “Older Posts” link at the bottom of this post. The all on one page thing was getting difficult to manage on free Wifi so now you can click back through posts or use the “Recent Posts” list at the bottom.
Hallo aus Deutschland, alles!

 

It would be an understatement to say we are in Hamburg for only a short while. We arrived yesterday at nine AM and by nine AM tomorrow we will be in Berlin. While I regretted spending such a short time in London it was a benign regret; I know we will be back. But the chances of our returning to Hamburg are slim (though we want to come back and revisit where we went today) and so I will leave here with a different kind of sadness. Hamburg is a beautiful city, everywhere you turn is another pretty bridge or an old building with great architecture. You get a sense of the age, here, as well as it’s place in history. It’s been a prosperous city, having been a major trade route, and that shows in the type of buildings and how well it’s all been maintained.

Love locks are affixed to many older bridges

 

“But Robin,” I hear you all yelling. “We don’t want to hear about the buildings, we want to know how all that German practice turned out.”

“Sehr gut, Danke.”

For reasons largely relating to the grammatical inconsistencies of the German language (that I won’t bore you with) I’m having a hard time when people speak to me, but so far I’ve managed to sort out a train ticket problem with a ticket agent, get bottles of water, read menus and brochures, and even suss out the occasional print advertisement. Knowing what I do has more helped me understand what’s going on around me than it has helped me actually navigate doing things in Germany, though people seem to appreciate that I’m trying. And if nothing else, I’ve been able to help Jim order food (and more importantly beer).

Yesterday we mostly walked around the city, found the Hauptbahnhof for logistical reasons (which turned out to be a good thing thanks to today’s Amazing Race style misadventure in Eurailpass bureaucracy) and walked along the pedestrian malls down by the water. Saw this gentleman playing some sort of hammer dulcimer type instrument. It was absolutely beautiful and he was very gracious when I asked if I could take his picture. (Of course I asked in German!)

Today we went to see what we came all the way to Hamburg to see: Miniatur Wonderland (also called Modelbahn Wonderland)

It’s hard to really describe Miniatur Wonderland. I’ve been calling it Legoland on steroids since we first decided to come here, but that’s not a really fair comparison. This place has Legoland beat by a mile, and even Jim thinks so. (But he is quick to point out that the two places aren’t really playing on the same field.) To call it a model train display isn’t fair either, because if anything the trains feel like an excuse for what the place is really all about, a scale modeler’s paradise. Everywhere you look, the whole place is just one vignette after another. Some morbid (quite a lot of death and accidents) some very typically European (there was a lot of sex going on) everywhere you look is some slice of life or another.

What makes the place most amazing is the sheer attention to detail in every single aspect of what is being done. For example, the entire display (3 floors) undergoes a day and night cycle. Sunset through night and around to sunrise. But when night falls, the most amazing thing happens. Lights begin to go on in all the buildings. The lights weren’t on and you notice them now, the lights actually start to come on. Headlights begin to flip on on the cars, and Las Vegas (seen above) comes blazing to life. As the lights come up, new scenes are revealed through windows.

Through the window of a hotel
 
But the jewel in the crown at Miniatur Wonderland is their airport, Knuffingen Flughafen which although fictional is fully functional. Planes begin at their gate, waiting for passengers or on the tarmac where busses bring them out to the planes. Then they push back from their gate (pushed back by a tug) disengage from the tug and taxi off to the runway. Overhead and in the train station beneath the airport the fully functional departure boards indicates which flights are where, boarding or taxiing or coming in for a landing, all in real time. If there is a plane you want to see, check the board. The time it shows as landing is the time on your watch it will land.
From the end of the runway the engines fire up and the planes go thundering down the strip and take off before disappearing into the clouds. Other planes are held on the taxi way (“we are third in line for departure”) waiting for inbound flights to come through the clouds and land. Then the landing planes go to their gates, busses and service vehicles come to gas them up or restock their peanuts and the whole thing eventually begins again.
Scattered around the place are 150 push buttons which activate animated scenes and effects. I can’t even describe them all, but they add life to the many scenes and vignettes (not many, the whole place is one scene after another after another and you can’t possibly take it all in).
Just come here. See this. Really. See this.
 
We have an early train to Berlin tomorrow (adventures in high-speed rail). The weather in Berlin is supposed to be crap, and we are scheduled for a six hour walking tour with David our British expat guide. Well, this is why we bought Gore-Tex jackets and waterproof shoes after all. Neither cold nor rain nor stairs (well maybe stairs) will keep these intrepid travelers from making fools out of themselves in Germany. At least the rain will keep the casual tourista at bay. Such weather is not for the faint hearted.
 
Until tomorrow!
 
 
PS Secret Message for Marni and John
Yours was better! Congratulations and we love you!