And on the Third Day There Was Jet Lag

Yep, more stairs.

So I guess it was bound to happen eventually, but today we (well I) was traveling at Bitch Factor V; exhausted and cranky; apparently I’m not 25 anymore and two days of constant walking on cobbles (and stairs) punished my feet. Sleep has been elusive (not for Jim, I think he can sleep anywhere) and so when the lag hit it was brutal. Like falling asleep standing up at the British Museum brutal.

(Cleveland QB Shane Austin’s view of our D-Line)

 

I wanted to like the British Museum more than I did. I don’t know if this was a failing of expectation or of the museum itself. The place is heavy (VERY HEAVY) on the great civilizations (Greece, Rome, Assyria, Japan) which comes off feeling a little vapidly self congratulatory; I get that at one time the British Empire owned one quarter of the world, but where is some of that? Indian art and artifacts, African colonial items, etc. Hell I’ll take some of the loot raided during the Crusades — it’s what I was looking for. Most of the civilizations represented collapsed long before the formation of anything resembling Britain, and a lot of it I’ve seen presented better at other museums in major cities.

(This is where I tell you that the opinions represented here are solely my own and do not represent those of Pflegenbaum, LLC or it’s subsidiary entities. Jim’s mileage may vary and he’ll log on and tell you himself, or not. But since I’m the one writing this it’s my opinion you get.)

There was this guy at the museum though. The one using a 3000 year old sarcophagus as a lean-to. The sarcophagus that was next to some statues and clearly marked as an artifact. In an Egyptian gallery. With mummies and other sarcophagi.

 

And there was this delight, not covered on either the Rick Steves walking tour we downloaded to the phones, or the official museum multimedia tour. (Which is a pity). This is a Roman windchime described on the helpful placard as a “Winged Phallus Lion”. I get the phallus bit — hard to miss, that, what with the phallus head, phallus tail, and phallus in the appropriate part (complete with non anatomical bell on cord). What I don’t get, is the lion. I guess it’s all in that back leg.

Early night for us, we have a 7am flight to Hamburg where we will likely be vegetables tomorrow. People who work from home just aren’t cut out for three days of non-stop walking on cobbles, and we are headed for Miniatur Wonderland on Friday! Hooray!

I think tomorrow you’ll get the first edition of Europe is Weird, a collection of randomness I’ve noted that is just plain, well, weird.

Until tomorrow aus Deutschland!

 

Secret message for Vin and Kim:

Look guys, it’s all of the cool stuff that used to be in the Parthenon with none of the graffiti! Should have skipped Greece and come here, the Brits stole all the good bits anyway!

 

Welcome to London where the Transportation is Infuriating and the Art Subversive

Consider this fair warning, Gang, the internet at our hotel in Westmimster is dodgy at best. Getting posts up May take some doing and authorizing commenters may also be slow. Hooray for internet problems!

 

So to pick up where we left off, international business class is some fancy flying! Everything you expect the experience to be, we got a very nice (and not at all Seinfeld-esque) dinner and breakfast, pillows and real blankets, even Bose noise canceling headphones. Neither Jim or I slept well, even with lay flat seats but I guess short of having your own plane nothing makes it not uncomfortable somehow.

 

But no time for lollygagging, there is traffic to sit in.

No seriously a lot of it.

Really a lot. The cab from Heathrow was a real London black cab and the driver was a real London cabbie but I have never seen traffic like this and I lived in New York! Even the cabbie was getting infuriated, and there were some questionable “not quite still yellow” lights being run. But we lived!

(Yes I know my eyes are closed, but it’s all I have of the two of us. You people know what my eyes look like. Look at the nice Banksy art and deal)

 

Today we headed via tube (not at all infuriating) to Shoreditch, north of the Thames and bordering on the Financial District in London. Like Harlem or the Bronx, it’s long been a home of the undereducated, lower class and therefore a prime ground for artists needing cheap accommodation. Like both the Bronx and Harlem it’s been going through a gentrification period which makes all the art we saw even more surreal.

 

Our guide, Dave, a photographer and scholar of street art explained the difference between street art and graffiti so: Street Art, he said is created for the benefit of the viewer. Often subversive or carrying a political or social message it is a work of art meant to be interpreted and interacted with by the audience. Graffiti is made for the benefit of the artist. Normally consisting of a name, tag or other identifying mark, it’s a big declaration that the maker was “there” – a way of declaring themselves kings of a neighborhood.

 

Shoreditch is pretty well covered in street art. Sign and lamp posts are marked with stickers, like artist business cards announcing the presence of street artists from around the world, walls are covered in layer after layer of art as new pictures, stencils, and paper appliqué works are layered over the old. That’s one of the unique things about gone street art, it’s by its nature ephemeral and fleeting. Art lasts days or weeks, sometimes years and sometimes minutes and Dave pointed out several works that hadn’t been there earlier that week. Once it’s up, unlike a gallery, the artist has no control over what happens to it and art is modified and often obliterated by the artists who come along after. (And often building owners and the municipality – though many artists have permission, most don’t making the act itself illegal and that alone is a statement against authority.)

Tomorrow, (if we can make the internet work) it’ll be tales of terror, beheading, and pretty stones. But one it is time to crash!