Homeward Bound

(Robin is fighting a cold, so she’s asked me to fill in for tonight’s post. She’ll be posting tomorrow from Heathrow, in between our two flights.)

Prime Minister Imre Nagy, keeping a watchful eye on Parliament


The bags are packed, the last of the “funny money” has been spent, and we’re in from our last European excursion. In too few hours we’ll be getting up and heading for the airport, to begin the long journey home. It’s been an amazing trip and I don’t think I would change much about it, but in some sense I also think we’re ready to come home. I told Robin earlier that I’m starting to understand why people take pictures. You see people that look at their whole trip through their point-and-shoot’s LCD screen, and they miss the beauty all around them. I tried diligently to not take too many pictures, but rather to be in the moment; now I hope that I’ve taken enough, not just to share, but to help us remember all that we’ve seen and experienced. Right now the past three weeks feels much like a dream — hazy and a little incoherent, but punctuated by some crystal clear moments. I think it will be a few weeks more before we can really say what we think of the whole experience, and the pictures will help with that.

In a couple more days I’ll be back at work, and of course everyone is going to ask about my trip. Right now I don’t know what I’m going to tell them. Even those of you who have been keeping up with this blog are only getting little snippets and our initial impressions of our experiences. How do I summarize the past three weeks into a few sentences short enough to be appropriate for casual conversation? I want people to know that they need to do this: go to other countries, talk with their people, get a different perspective, and learn about the world beyond our shores. We’ve learned so much culture and history on this trip, that I dont know know we would have learned any other way. For example, tomorrow Robin’s going to talk about who was the catalyst for the fall of the Berlin Wall (spoiler: it wasn’t the Americans).

We live in a world where the availability of information necessitates a lot of filtering before it reaches us. There’s nothing wrong with that — there’s simply too much information to assimilate without any filtering. However, there’s also benefit to sometimes trying out someone else’s filters, and the best way to do that is travel. See the places where historical events occurred. Talk with people who have a passionate opinion on what happened, maybe even because they lived through it, or at least have lived with the effects.

I hope that every one takes the opportunity to travel abroad. It’s an eye opening and sometimes humbling experience, and I think I’m a better person for having done this.

 

German Sensibility

(As Robin noted yesterday, today was our trip out to the Dachau concentration camp memorial. Neither of us is really prepared to talk about that, so instead I’m posting an entry that I started yesterday, but has been percolating for almost a week. Robin should resume her daily posting tomorrow.)

Germans are often stereotyped as cold and efficient, even by the other European nations. Frankly I don’t see this as a bad thing. Things here just work, and their design reflects a significant amount of forethought. For example, take a guess what this is:

Is it an NSA business card?

You might guess from its size and shape that it’s our hotel key, but it’s completely anonymous. Following the repression and surveillance of most of last century — first by the Nazis, and then by the communists — Germany has become a model of protecting privacy. Even something as innocuous as a hotel key could give out personal information that you may not want to share. Of course the hotel name or brand might indicate how well off you are, but it could say more, such as if you were at a hotel that caters to gays. Also, if you lose your key, anyone that finds it would have no chance of finding your hotel where they might otherwise be able to socially engineer their way past the front desk staff.

I didn’t get pictures, but there are a couple of things about the hotels that impressed me. First, both the Hamburg and Berlin hotels had shoeshine machines in each floor’s elevator lobbies, and they included multiple brush types for different shoe types. Additionally, there were shoeshine kits (both brown and black) and brushes in the rooms. No shoe shines in Munich, but the room has a disposable glove for removing lint.

All three hotels had in-room safes, which is becoming standard in the US. What was unusual was the notices that the hotels actually had some liability should the safe’s contents be stolen. Robin and I both thought this was remarkable. In the US if someone manages to steal your valuables from the in-room safe then tough luck, even though it was most likely a hotel staff member that took them.

The Berlin hotel in particular was very space efficient —the whole room looked like it could have come from an IKEA showroom. No bureau, but the alcove between the bathroom and the bedroom had plenty of shelving. (This also makes it harder to accidentally leave something behind because nothing is out of sight.) No nightstand, but instead we had a shelf of appropriate height with a cubby hole underneath. The one bathroom door was hinged in such a way that it could close off the entire bathroom, or just the separate toilet, leaving the sink and bath available for use. Of course this means that the shower/bath would be open to the bedroom, but at least it’s possible to share the bathroom and maintain some privacy.

The wait is almost over...

In the US our pedestrian lights tell people how much time they have left to cross the street. Here they tell people how much longer they have to wait to cross the street. It’s a subtle but important difference — the American version is implying that the pedestrian is interrupting the cars, while the German version is the other way round.

Here’s another example of using technology to enforce courtesy, which anyone who has tried to push their way off a London or New York subway car while everyone else was trying to push themselves on will appreciate: some German subway trains use both sides of the car. You exit to the right and people enter from the left. You even get a few seconds head start when exiting, which subtly encourages you to use the correct side and generally ensures that everyone gets on and off more quickly.

ICE, ICE baby

That's a sleek train

This last item isn’t Germany-specific, but common across Europe. I’m writing this while riding a train at 125mph, which isn’t even as fast as it will go. For some distances this is a very efficient and civilized way to travel. Robin and I are facing each other, with a table in the middle and some leg room. There’s also a dining car we can visit, or we can order food right from our seats from a porter. Either way the prices are reasonable and not the usurious rates charged by most airlines. There’s also wifi onboard. You can pay for internet access, or just use the free info such as the real-time map and updates on arrival times, or read the news and stream free content provided by Deutsches Bahn. I don’t know that I would do this for more than a day at a time, but it would certainly be a great option from Phoenix to Las Vegas.

So there you go. It hasn’t been all beers and brats (though there’s certainly been a fair amount of both). The Germans have a great deal of thoughtful design, which I really appreciate, and I hope I’ve inherited a little of.

Secret message for my parents — they're everywhere!

 

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